Nairobi... woah

So its been about four days since I got to Nairobi and I think the best description is simply woah. A good woah. But definitely woah. (So this is going to be a long one, but if you want just the summary: Nairobi is crazy, Nairobi traffic is crazy, our apartment is crazy nice, the contrast between Western and Kenyan cultures next to each other is crazy, meeting some important government official is crazy, the Kenya-Uganda was crazy fun and once again Nairobi is crazy)

Got in Thursday morning after a pretty easy flight, met Rob (the other consultant I'm working with), met my bags, met my taxi driver and ventured into big, bad Nairobi. The first thing that struck me was the absolutely horrific traffic. I expected some crazy driving but there wasn't really a chance for that with tons of cars, trucks, SUVs and busses inching along the generally inadequate roads (shocking I know, the infrastructure here is not quite up to par). As a result, there are tons of people walking around here (from mothers with children strapped to their backs to businessmen in suits), though most often on little dirt paths next to the road rather than proper sidewalks. Or they take matatus, converted vans that careen all around the city with a reputations for overcrowding (like 25 people), crashing and having sayings like "Psycho Beast" on the windscreen. Woah.

So we arrived in our temporary apartment which is probably best described as a Swahili prince's palace. Its a huge, lavishly decorated, 3 bedroom, 3 bath, 2 balcony apartment in a complex that looks more like a castle than a building. And while there is satellite TV, wireless and 24 hour guards, the electricity has cut out right now, the internet is dreadfully slow and the water heater is on some sort of time I can't figure out. I know, I know, a tad ridiculous (affected?) to bitch that the wireless internet in the penthouse apartment in the middle of Kenya is too slow to download Generation Kill.

Settled in to the apartment and wandered around the Westlands neighborhood where we are living. Its an interesting area, right across from a big western style mall is a market of narrow passageways between corrugated iron stalls selling food, hair cuts and African masks, then down the street is a big dubai style mall that is more luxurious (and expensive) than anything in Denver or DC. Woah. Picked up cell phones (you know the drill… +254 714 392 061) had some Chinese for dinner and hit the hay.

The next day we met with the Kenya Information and Communications Technology Board who is giving us office space while we are here. The folks at the board were unbelievably nice, welcoming us, helping find us places to live, offering to plan outings and driving us around (which is nice since driving is not on the top of my list of things to do here). We met the Permanent Secretary for IT in Kenya, a PhD who is like fifth in line for the Kenyan Presidency (same as Condi), and who really I have absolutely no business being allowed to talk to (though he was more impressed with my business card than anyone I have ever seen). Woah. Had some late conference calls (that’s going to be a theme here) and then met two other ADPers for a really nice Italian meal.

Saturday was a grand East African day. Woke up late and was treated to lunch by the CEO of the ICT Board at the aforementioned dubai-style mall. Then headed across town for the Elgon Cup rugby match between Kenya and Uganda. The stadium (well bleachers around a field) was packed and Kenya put on a great show playing pretty impressive rugby. Push-over trys, drop goals, speedy wings and a great individual counter by a flanker helped Kenya to a 39-20 win and the Elgon Cup championship. After the match everyone crowded on the field, took pictures with the Kenya players and drank Tuskers (kenya’s beer).

We then hopped on a bus (once again, busses don’t come to a full stop) for the city center which was good fun, about 30 cents to get a few miles and be the only white faces amongst fifty people. Walked around the center city which was just jammed full of people and matatus (like literally thousands) and grabbed some more beers at some bar. Then went for another really nice Italian meal (this time in a courtyard surrounded by fire pits) with a big random group of aid workers and Kenyans and then capped off the day at a hookah bar (actually capped off the day in a cab driving off road since a tree has been blocking some street for who knows how long… infrastructure). Woah.

So in conclusion: Woah, I need to try some African food and thanks for tuning in (comment, skype, text or call!)

Your friendly neighborhood kiosk